On Sunday, we went to an Egyptian Premier League soccer game with Brandon’s Egyptian friends Mustafa and Aiman. The game was between Alahly and Zamaalek who are apparently huge rivals, and this was the big game of the season.  As we moved through the line toward the ticket-takers and started seeing more and more police in full riot gear, I began wondering if we should perhaps rethink our plans.  Fortunately conservative-and-cautious-little-emily lost to why-not-emily, and after about six friskings for the men, and only two for me, we made it in.  Mustafa is a big Alahly fan, and he had to go through extra security because he had face paint on.  I think they were trying to prevent any over-excitement that might taunt rivals because it sounds like last year’s game was a little wild.  I think people ripped up seats and threw them last year… but with all those riot police around this time, no one was tempted to do anything beyond wave a flag or banner and subsequently be taken away for doing so.  Not sure how you smuggle a huge flag in with six thorough security checks, but I guess we can tell the fans are passionate.  Fortunately, our team won 1 to 0.  And we quietly and peacefully left and returned home.

Today we went to check out some souk action with some friends.  Following our trusty Lonely Planet book’s recommendation was somewhat of a bust, although we found a wonderful junk shop and stumbled across Coptic Cairo (expect more on that in a future post after our inevitable return trip).  We hopped back on the metro and headed for the markets near the Khan Al Kalili (and expect more on that later as well!).  There is just so much to see it is impossible to even begin to describe it all.  You will all just have to come visit to see it for yourselves!

Anyhow, I will say that everything is oddly arranged rather disadvantageously for the vendors but quite conveniently for the shoppers — every store on a block sells pretty much the exact same thing.  We went through a block of curtain rod shops, a whole block of baby shower trinkets, a whole block of party supplies and fake flowers, etc.  Check out the photos below for some oddities from the block of spice shops.

We also purchased and started to eat something that resembled koshari but alas was not (and probably had meat in it).  Then we tried some of the corn I previously mentioned in another post and we were pretty disappointed (we’ll have to find another feather-fan-corn-roaster to try later), and then FINALLY, much like goldilocks, found the street food that was JUST RIGHT.  I forget what it was called, but it was a delicious whole grain, wheat berry type of porridge with milk, coconut, chopped nuts, raisins, shredded wheat, and who knows what other delicious goodness… served very hot, YUMM!

And now, Brandon is making pizza dough again, and since I am apparently trying to eat as much food as humanly possible while I’m here, I am going to go help however I can by eating toppings while the dough rises.

flatbread french toast = egyptian toast!

Ever since seeing Brandon’s lovely photo of breakfast on the balcony with Marti, I have been looking forward to trying this make-do-with-what-ya-got version of french toast!  delicious!  The newspaper was full of bad news.

before

after

mmmmmmmm!  I have to say I am quite lucky to have an amazing cook for a boyfriend!  Brandon has been making delicious pizza’s for me since our second date, and they just get better and better.  Not to mention the produce here is incredible!  This pizza had a pesto base with fresh mozzarella, Egyptian feta (which is more like tangy cream cheese), fresh garlic, onion, yellow bell peppers, mystery but super hot chili peppers, diced tomato, and baby basil from Brandon’s balcony garden.  Need I say more?

What started out as a short walk to a travel agency place turned into a major trek across Cairo.  After not finding what we wanted at the travel place, we set off for Garden City, a more urban but beautiful region of Cairo with stunning architecture and lots of shops and vendors.  All that walking and weaving in between cars, mini buses, motorcycles, scooters, and the odd pedestrians emerging from vehicles in the middle of traffic can sure work up an appetite, so we stopped into one of the many koshari restaurants we came across.

For those of you haven’t heard of koshari (and that’s probably everyone, unless, like me, you heard about it from good old Anthony Bourdain), it is probably as close to “real” Egyptian food as you’re going to find.  Let me first say that it is DELICIOUS, even though it looks like a bunch of leftovers all piled in together.  It is made up of rice, lentils, chickpeas, crispy carmelized fried onions, and… macaroni.  Yeah, I know, MACARONI.  With rice.  And lentils and chickpeas.  It sounds strange, but believe me, it is delicious.  The whole heap is topped with a some warm tomato sauce and garlic and chili oil.  What’s not to love!?

After stuffing ourselves, we continued our trek onward toward Zamalek – a region of Cairo that is on an island in the middle of the Nile, or Neel, as we like to call it here 😉  Walking along the Nile, ehem the Neeeeel, there were lots of great things to see: vendors roasting corn and fanning the embers with big bird-feather fans (unfortunately a deal-breaker for me, haha), the sweet potato cart that was calling my name with the delicious aroma of carmelized yumminess, people heckling us for felucca rides, guys walking around with glasses of tea on trays, and lots of couples everywhere.  Unsurprisingly, the corridor along the Nile is a favorite spot for local couples and is pretty much the only place I have seen men and women holding hands or even sitting closely side by side… a little like a G-rated lover’s lane.

Over the bridge was Zamalek.  It was similar to Maadi, but I think I breathed in a year’s worth of car exhaust in just a few hours.  Oh well, right?  I would like to go back in the daylight sometime, so perhaps there will be more on Zamalek later.

Once it got dark, we headed back to home sweet home in Maadi.   Brandon is currently in the kitchen starting on dinner, so I better go join in on the fun.  We have these strange little miniature avocados that we picked up at a fruit stand, so I’m interested in seeing what chef Brandon is coming up with.

Stay tuned for pyramid pictures one of these days…

P.S.  Looks like we are going to an Egyptian Premier League football match (aka soccer game) next Sunday with Brandon’s friend Mustaffa and his wife.  Apparently we aren’t rooting for Zamalek, so goooooooo other team!